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I also took out my HDD and downloaded windows onto a flash drive and tried to install it through my SSD, but all I get then is the windows logo and it just sits there, no loading circle or anything. I have gotten it to the point where the circles spin and says "Starting Automatic Repair" but it still crashes like stated before.

I’ve tried turning the computer on with a bootable CD installed, and the CD drive starts to spin, but nothing is read and eventually winds down. The monitor yellow light is on continuously, and the screen is always dark.

These different reactions would come from changing my boot priorities in BIOS, but either way, I get nowhere. Hello, DJ, thank you very much for all your advice above. The image on the monitor suddenly froze up, keyboard failed but there were still orange lights it. I then switched the computer off by pressing the restart button on the front. The monitor screen now had no image and the light at the front has turned from green to orange; now no lights on the keyboard.

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By removing and then reinstalling these, you might be able to solve your problem. Many times the problem is that simple to fix, once you find the correct jumper. Before you start, make sure your computer is unplugged and the power supply is switched off.

It really doesn’t matter what OS is running, there is a chip that controls that in hardware https://avast.downloadsdb.com/, not software. If you are getting blue screens than start there, but my guess is it is the motherboard. A typical chip used on the motherboard to control the power on/off is the IT8718, not sure what your board uses since it varies, but that chips usually controls things like power on/off, fans, etc. If your computer isn’t booting, you’ll get a black screen, so make sure your computer actually turns all the way on when you press the power button.

I’ve tried booting from a startup floppy, but the computer never tries to boot from the floppy. I can shut down by holding the power button in for 5 seconds. When I turn the computer back on, it immediately goes to the amber light on the power button, and tries the CD drive as described above. The holding down of the power button to turn off the pc is controlled by hardware on the motherboard.

Both fans inside the computers were working and running quietly. I couldn’t hear any spinning noise inside the Hard Drive. I have preformed the motherboard test and there were no beeps, I have also done the processor test, it wouldn’t heat up. I have rubbed the RAM card with eraser but it didn’t help either.

Like a graphics card, you could switch motherboards to identify whether or not this is the cause of your monitor’s screen being black. This involves quite a lot of effort and not recommended for the inexperienced or faint-hearted. You may be better off tackling something a little easier. Replacing, swapping or just reseating the RAM modules in your computer. Your typical motherboard comes equipped with two or four RAM slots, usually with 1, 2, or 4 modules of DDR2 , DDR3 or DDR4 .

  • Then again it is so damn good that Olive editor is right now my primary editor for most projects.
  • The official website clearly states the same, which is why this piece of software should not be used for important projects.
  • The fact that there is NO stable version of this software does bother a bit as it’s ability to handle complex projects is almost unpredictable.

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Frequently, the reset CMOS jumper is labeled as, “jp1“, “reset CMOS” and “JBAT1“. If you can not tell which jumper it is, consult your motherboard manual. I have tried using a different power supply and graphics card and nothing changed. I don’t have an integrated graphics card so I used an old EVGA GTX 660 ti.

I also took out my HDD and downloaded windows onto a flash drive and tried to install it through my SSD, but all I get then is the windows logo and it just sits there, no loading circle or anything. I have gotten it to the point where the circles spin and says "Starting Automatic […]

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